Clean + Dirty Drinking by Gabriella Mlynarczyk

Author:Gabriella Mlynarczyk [Mlynarczyk, Gabriella]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Chronicle Books LLC
Published: 2018-02-27T16:00:00+00:00

MILK

It may be surprising to find milk included with fats, but it is essentially fat and water—be it animal fat or nut or grain oil. Back in the nineties all that was available was soy milk or that dishwatery rice milk. Since then, rice, soy, hemp, and nut milks have become ubiquitous; any good supermarket offers an extensive selection of dairy-free alternatives, and natural foods stores have been fully stocked long before, of course.

As with fat-washing, milk can also be used to temper the ABV “heat” of a spirit (see page 105). Whereas fat-washing adds texture and flavor, milk-washing uses the milk solids to bind with and “wash out” unwanted compounds in a liquid, such as phenols and tannins. To achieve this, lemon juice is added to curdle, or bind, the solids in the milk, which then act like a magnet and attract those aforementioned compounds. Both are then carefully removed.

Milk has its role in mixology—either incorporating it into a drink (consider cream in an Alexander cocktail or Ramos Fizz) or used in a washing process as just discussed.

Milk-Washing

Milk-washing, invented in the 1800s and often used in pre-Prohibition milk punches, became a popular way to soften the flaws of inexpensive and harsh spirits. It works particularly well in tea-infused spirits, which leave behind a bucketload of wicked tannins that can result in an unbalanced cocktail. The milk is added to the tea-washed spirit, followed by small amounts of lemon juice, which causes the milk to curdle; the curds attach to the tannins and suck them out of the liquid. Most recipes call for full-fat cow’s milk; I have more success and achieve a softer mouthfeel using goat’s milk. (While I do not include a milk-washed drink in this book, you can learn more about this method from Dave Arnold’s book, Liquid Intelligence: The Art and Science of the Perfect Cocktail.)

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